Diamond shape

By Yves Lemay Apr 21, 20


A wide variety of shapes are available today, thanks to technological advancement and researches on light behaviors in crystals. 


All these different shapes can make possible a wide range of beautiful and exquisite designs on jewelry pieces, making them become pure work of art in terms of aesthetic and originality.


Round cut

diamond round cut picture

The round brilliant cut diamond is by far the most popular and most sought after diamond shape available today. 


For almost 100 years, diamond cutters have been using advanced theories of light behavior and precise mathematical calculations to optimize the fire and brilliance in round diamonds. 


Traditional and classical, the round brilliant shape is perfect for any jewel, especially engagement rings.


Asscher- Square Emerald cut

diamond asscher cut picture

An Asscher cut is a step cut with angled corners and rows of pavilion and crown facets that run parallel to the girdle. “Asscher” is a term often used in the marketplace to describe these square Emerald cuts. 


It is easier to see inclusions and color in step cuts.  


Size matters


Asscher cuts will generally look smaller from the “face-up” position than other shapes of the same carat weight.


diamond asscher cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 1:1

Acceptable are: 

Length to Width ratio 1-1.4:1

Princess 

diamond princess cut picture

Princess cuts are square or slightly rectangular brilliant cuts that display exceptional brilliance when cut to certain proportions. 


Princess cuts are an excellent choice for individuals who appreciate the qualities of round brilliants but prefer a square or rectangular shape. 


They are becoming quite popular for engagement rings.


Size matters


Princess cuts generally look smaller from the “face-up” position than other shapes of the same weight. 


Generally, a well-cut 1ct Princess will measure approximately 5.6 mm vs. a well-cut 1ct Round Brilliant, which will typically measure about 6.5mm.


diamond princess cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 1:1

Acceptable are: 

Length to Width ratio 1-1.4:1

Emerald 

diamond emerald cut picture

The Emerald cut is a step cut with angled corners and rows of pavilion and crown facets that run parallel to the girdle. 


It is easier to see inclusions in Emerald cuts. 


It is also one of the best cut to display the color of the stone, which is great when buying a colored stone, but keep in mind that the color of H. I and lower color grades piece will be more visible!


Size matters


Emerald cuts that are not overly deep that are within the recommended girdle thickness range may look more significant from the “face-up” position than princess cuts, radiant cuts, and round brilliants of the same carat weight.


diamond emerald cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 1.65:1

Acceptable are: 

Length to Width ratio 1.25-1.75:1

Radiant

diamond radiant cut picture

Radiant cuts are square or rectangular mixed cuts with angled corners. 


Henry Grossbard patented the Radiant cut in the late 1970s, as a brilliant alternative to the Emerald cut. 


Radiant cuts are often utilized to maximize color in fancy colored diamonds.


Size matters


Like Princess cuts, Radiant cuts generally look smaller from the “face-up” position than other diamond shapes of the same weight as a result of their different design.


diamond radiant cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 1:1

Acceptable are: 

Length to Width ratio 1.5:1

Marquise

diamond marquise cut picture

The Marquise cut is a boat-shaped brilliant-cut with pointed ends. 


A well-proportioned Marquise cut can elongate the finger if set in a north/south orientation. 


Size matters


Marquise cuts generally look much more significant from the “face-up” position than other fancy shapes of the same carat weight.


diamond marquise cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 2:1

Acceptable are: 

Length to Width ratio 1.75-2.25:1

Oval

diamond oval cut picture

An Oval cut is an elliptical-shaped brilliant cut. 


When well proportioned, Oval diamonds can elongate the finger while exhibiting a brilliance between that of a Round and a Marquise. 


Ovals also may show color and inclusions more than other shapes. 


Size matters


Oval cuts generally look more significant from the “face-up” position than other shapes of the same carat weight.


diamond oval cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 1.5:1

Acceptable are: 

Length to Width ratio 1.33-1.66:1

Pear

diamond pear cut picture

A variation of the Round Brilliant, pears are rounded on one end with a tapering point on the other, like a teardrop. 


Similar to Ovals and Marquises, Pears can elongate the finger when set in a ring. 


Be aware that Pear cuts can show color and inclusions more than other fancy shapes. 


Size matters


Pear cuts generally look more significant from the “face-up” position than other shapes of the same carat weight. 


Pears can be found measuring 8mm long X 5mm wide compared to an average 6.5mm measurement for a 1 ct. Round Brilliant.


diamond pear cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 1.5:1

Acceptable are: 

Length to Width ratio 1.5-1.75:1

Heart

diamond heart cut picture

The Heart is a brilliant-cut with curved lobes that stem from a centered cleft. 


The lobes slope down to form a point. 


Color can be more visible in Hearts, especially in the lobe areas. 


Look for hearts with balanced and symmetrical proportions. 


A defined cleft with smooth lobes and a sharp point are generally preferred.


Size matters


Hearts look similar in size to Round Brilliants from the “face-up” position, but inconsistent proportions can lead to differences in relative sizes. 


In general, Hearts face up well for their carat weight.


diamond heart cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 0.9-1.2:1, or which is most pleasing to the eye.

Cushion

diamond cushion cut picture

Cushion cuts are square or rectangular brilliant cuts with rounded corners and curved sides, a pillow-like shape. 


Some Cushion cuts may have more significant facets, so inclusions may be easier to see. 


The variations in facet patterns may also enable the viewer to view color more efficiently, and some may enjoy more color in the stone, especially with antique styled cushions.


Size matters


Some Cushions are cut to higher depth percentages, and these stones will generally look smaller from the “face-up” position for their relative carat weights.


diamond cushion cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 1:1

Acceptable are: 

Length to Width ratio 1-1.5:1

Trilliant

diamond trilliant cut picture

Triangular Brilliants, also known as Trillions and Trilliants, are mixed cuts with three equally straight or slightly curved sides.


Triangular Brilliants are often seen as side stones for other fancy shapes, but when well proportioned, one can also be a stunning centerpiece in an engagement ring. 


Triangular Brilliants are often found with shallow total depth percentages.


Size matters


Triangular Brilliants may look large from face-up position for their relative carat weights because they are often unusually shallow.


diamond trilliant cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 1:1

Acceptable are: 

Length to Width ratio 1.1 to 1

Baguette/Tapered Baguette

diamond baguette-tapered cut picture

This is a cut for those people who like a long stone. Unusual in large sizes, they are used mainly as side stones for other fancy shapes stones or in channel settings, tapered baguettes being used for curved channel settings. 


They are usually cut around the 2:1 ratio, but this varies a lot according to their use and position on the jewel. 


Like is Emerald-cut, cousin, the tapered family isn’t very good with hiding inclusions, and their long, parallel facets show quite well the body color of the stone.


Size matters


In general, Baguettes face up well for their carat weight.


diamond baguette  cut picture
diamond tapered cut picture

Optimum Shape is: 

Length to Width ratio 1.5:1

Acceptable are: 

Length to Width ratio 1.5-2.5:1

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